The happiness of both our customers and our puppies is our top priority. We take placement of each of and every puppy very seriously. They have all been loved, cared for and nurtured by our family from the time of their birth. Because of this, each puppy we place is guaranteed to be physically healthy, well socialized and ready for a lifetime of love and companionship. Our joy comes from seeing our puppies go to their new loving forever homes. Our greatest reward is knowing the happiness and joy they bring to so many families. We take great pride in raising our puppies so that they will make wonderful companions and loving additions to their new family.

All our puppies come with a Florida Health Certificate , 2 year genetic health guarantee and life time breeder support. They will be up to date on all vaccinations and dewormed at 2,4,6 and 8 weeks of age.

Once a puppy is purchased, vaccines will be given at the risk of the Buyer’s decision. Please be aware that some vaccines can be very dangerous to puppies. Vaccines can have serious adverse reactions in puppies and studies have shown a link to (HOD) in Great Danes. Divergent Great Danes does not recommend the (LEPTOSPIROSIS) vaccine ever in the life of your Great Dane. We advise that Rabies also not be given before the age of 6 month and it should never be given with any other combination of vaccines. These are recommendations only based on years of breeding. We are not suggestion in any way that you not continue to vaccinate as this is extremely important to your puppies overall health. All puppies should be kept away from public places including pet stores and puppy parks until they have finished their puppy shots as only then will they have developed immunity to illnesses such as Parvo which is highly contagious and can be deadly.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

OUR APPROACH TO NUTRITION

Nutrition & Feeding

Proper nutrition is one of the most important factors in raising a healthy Great Dane puppy. Great Danes experience an extraordinary amount of growth during their first two years of life, and proper nutrition during this period plays an important role in healthy bone, joint and muscle development.

After more than 30 years of raising Great Danes, we have watched nutritional recommendations change as the science surrounding giant-breed growth has evolved. Our recommendations are based on both decades of hands-on experience raising Great Danes and current research regarding the nutritional needs of rapidly growing large and giant-breed puppies.

Protein.

What We Know Today

For many years, Great Dane owners and breeders were advised to keep dietary protein at or below approximately 25–26%. Higher protein was believed to cause excessively rapid growth, knuckling and other developmental orthopedic problems.

Research, including controlled studies conducted specifically in growing Great Danes, has since demonstrated that protein itself is not responsible for these developmental problems. Protein is essential for the development and maintenance of muscle and other tissues, so we no longer consider 26% to be an absolute maximum.

That being said, we also do not believe that extremely high-protein diets are necessary for a growing Great Dane. Our preferred range is approximately 25–27% crude protein, preferably with a substantial portion of that protein coming from quality animal sources. This moderate range has worked exceptionally well in our breeding program for many years and provides ample protein to support healthy growth and muscle development.

Calcium & Phosphorus

Extremely Important During Growth

While protein received much of the attention in older Great Dane feeding recommendations, calcium, phosphorus, total caloric intake and mineral balance are much more significant considerations during giant-breed growth.

Great Dane puppies grow extremely rapidly and are particularly sensitive to inappropriate calcium intake. Research conducted specifically in Great Danes has demonstrated that excessive calcium can interfere with normal skeletal development.

For our growing Great Danes, our preferred nutritional profile is approximately:

Protein: 25–27%

Calcium: approximately 1.0–1.3%, with modest variation depending upon the complete formulation

Phosphorus: approximately 0.8–1.0%

Calcium-to-Phosphorus Ratio: approximately 1.2:1–1.3:1

The relationship between calcium and phosphorus is just as important as the individual percentages. These minerals work together during skeletal development, and simply adding more calcium does not create stronger bones.

Never add calcium, bone meal or other calcium/mineral supplements to an otherwise complete and balanced diet unless there is a specific medical reason and your veterinarian has instructed you to do so. Excess calcium can be harmful to a rapidly developing giant-breed skeleton.

What We Feed & Recommend

After decades of raising Great Danes, two foods that we have consistently had excellent results with are VICTOR Professional and VICTOR Elite Canine.

Our focus is kibble, paired with a carefully balanced homemade food component to support digestion growth, and nutrient absorption. If you choose to transition to a different food, it is imperative that the same nutritional parameters are maintained to help support proper the growth and development of your new puppy.

VICTOR Professional provides approximately:

26% minimum crude protein

18% minimum crude fat

1.4% calcium

1.1% phosphorus

Calcium-to-phosphorus ratio approximately 1.3:1

VICTOR Elite Canine provides approximately:

25% minimum crude protein

14% minimum crude fat

1.2% calcium

1.0% phosphorus

Calcium-to-phosphorus ratio approximately 1.2–1.3:1

Both formulas closely represent the type of nutritional profile we prefer for our Great Danes.

Although our preferred calcium target is generally around 1.0–1.3%, we do not treat any individual percentage in isolation. VICTOR Professional, for example, lists calcium at approximately 1.4% and has been a food we have successfully used for many years. The complete nutritional profile and the balance between nutrients are more meaningful than drawing an arbitrary line at a single percentage.

Families do not have to feed the exact food we use, but if choosing another brand, we recommend selecting a food with a similar overall nutritional profile rather than choosing a food simply because it is marketed for puppies or because it contains a very high percentage of meat or protein.

Feeding the Growing Great Dane

Young Great Dane puppies should generally be fed three to four smaller meals throughout the day rather than one or two very large meals. As they mature, the number of daily meals can gradually be reduced.

Feeding recommendations printed on a bag are a starting point, not an absolute rule. Every Great Dane is an individual. Genetics, sex, metabolism, activity level and stage of growth can cause two puppies of the same age to require very different amounts of food.

Feed the puppy in front of you

If your puppy is becoming too thin, increase the amount being fed. If your puppy is carrying excessive body condition, adjust the amount accordingly. In almost three decades of raising Great Danes, we have rarely seen an overweight Great Dane puppy when provided adequate exercise and allowed to grow naturally.

We do not recommend deliberately restricting the calories of a healthy growing puppy simply to keep him or her exceptionally thin. A growing puppy requires adequate calories, protein, essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to support developing organs, muscle and bone. Adequate nutrition is essential to support their tremendous growth and development, at the same time, puppies should not be deliberately overfed in an attempt to make them grow larger or faster.

Genetics determine your Great Dane's ultimate potential for height, weight and overall build. Overfeeding will not create genetic size that isn't there, while inappropriate nutrition can interfere with healthy development.

The goal is a lean, well-muscled puppy experiencing steady, healthy growth, not achieving a particular number on the scale by a particular age.

available. Puppies should be fed three to four times a day. Smaller meals are easier to digest for the puppy, and energy levels don't peak and fall so much with frequent meals. Use your judgment when feeding your puppy. If your puppy is to thin and you are maintaining a proper worming schedule, then increase the amount of food you are giving with each feeding. Most puppies will eat until they are full. If your puppy is a food hog (as in- gobbles his/her food down within a few minutes of placing it in front of him/her) then you may want to look onto a slow feeder or separate the amount of food into more frequent smaller portions per feeding. After two years of age you can switch your dog to a high-quality dog food and the phosphors/ calcium ratio is no longer an issue as by this age your puppy has usually reached full bone growth and development.

Grain-Free Diets

We do not recommend grain-free diets for our Great Danes unless there is a specific medical reason for feeding one and it has been recommended by your veterinarian. If feeding grain free (NOT our recommendation) protein can be up to 30% although current studies indicate that a grain free diet a can contribute to cardiac problems including DCM (Dilated Cardiomyopathy) so we discourage it. Grain-free does not automatically mean healthier, more natural or higher quality. We prefer a grain-inclusive, moderate-protein diet with quality animal protein and appropriately balanced calcium and phosphorus rather than choosing foods based on current dietary trends.

Ingredient restrictions

Lamb can interfere with torn absorption. Taurin is critical for muscle development and heart function. Lamb has been shown in multiple studies to be high in copper, which can contribute to copper toxicity and active or chronic hepatitis

We strongly recommend avoiding lamb as a primary protein source and in treats during growth

Following these feeding guidelines is one of the most important steps you can take to protect your puppy’s health and ensure proper development into adulthood.

Please keep in mind that the puppies are currently on a diet formulated with the proper protein levels and calcium-to-phosphorus ratios necessary to support healthy growth and prevent developmental issues.

Our Feeding Philosophy

Great Dane nutrition does not need to be complicated.

At Divergent Great Danes, our recommendations are based on more than 30 years of experience with this breed combined with current nutritional research.

Our basic recommendations remain simple:

Feed VICTOR Professional, VICTOR Elite Canine, or a nutritionally comparable food containing approximately 25–27% protein, moderate fat, appropriately controlled calcium and phosphorus, and a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio around 1.2:1–1.3:1. Avoid unnecessary calcium supplementation and grain-free diets, provide adequate calories for healthy growth without deliberately overfeeding, and adjust the amount of food to the individual puppy in front of you.

Our goal is never to make a puppy grow as quickly or become as heavy as possible. Our goal is to provide the nutrition necessary for each puppy to reach his or her genetic potential while developing strong bones, healthy joints, appropriate muscle and a sound body.

HOUSEBREAKING 101

Done correctly, housebreaking should not be a turbulent production but just a matter of putting a little extra work into getting your puppy on a schedule during the first weeks after he/she arrives at your home. Don’t let unnecessary stress over this very natural, uncomplicated process taint any of the joy surrounding the puppy training process and your new dog’s puppyhood. Housebreaking your new puppy is going to take patience. You should begin to housebreak as soon as you bring your new puppy home. Puppies need to relieve themselves approximately six times a day. After about 8, 9, 10 weeks of age, the dog should be taught to go potty outside. Do not have paper or potty pads inside your home. Peeing is for outside only, or you are teaching your new pup it is okay to potty inside your home. Take advantage of any early training we have already started. Teach your puppy to potty on a designated spot outdoors, making him think. After you bring home your new puppy the first thing you need to teach the pup is to walk to the door. Do not carry it. Make the puppy walk or it will not learn to alert you. . A puppy should be taken out immediately after each meal since a full stomach puts pressure on the colon and bladder.

Please remember that a puppy is not physically able to control the muscle that allows him to "hold it" until he is about 12 weeks of age. Before this time, good housebreaking routines should be practiced to avoid having your puppy go the to the bathroom all over your house. Watch for signs of urination or defecation, such as turning in circles. Take your puppy out often. Using a crate or confining your puppy to a small part of the house that has easy clean up floors are some ways to ensure your puppy does not urinate all over your house. It is much harder to housebreak a puppy if he smells his/ her urine in places you do not wish him to relief himself. Another built-in plus when it comes to housebreaking is our puppy’s digestive tract, which is extremely quick and efficient. Five to 30 minutes after the puppy eats, she’ll want to defecate. So, with a consistent eating schedule, and your attention to the clock, your puppy can maintain regular trips outside.

It is important to understand your puppy. Dogs want to please; the trick is to make them understand what it is you want from them. Dogs do not think the way humans do. When you are unhappy with your dog, it assumes that whatever it is doing at the exact moment you show disapproval is the thing that is upsetting you. For example, if your puppy relieves himself on your floor and you show your disapproval five minutes after he has committed the act, the puppy will think that the mess on the floor is bad. He will not relate the fact that it was the act of relieving himself on your floor that you disapprove of. The dog will eliminate, see the mess and get worried; you are now going to be unhappy. This is the reason so many dogs will relieve themselves in inappropriate places and look really guilty about it, yet they continue to do it. Some owners start to think that their dog is being sneaky when really it does not fully understand what it is doing wrong. It knows the mess upsets you but does not understand that it should stop "making" the mess. To your dog, these two things: "the mess" and "the act" are unrelated. The trick is to catch your dog in the act and make him understand. You should not hit your dog. Your tone of your voice is enough to make the dog see you are unhappy. A firm "No! You are not allowed to go in the house. No! No!" is all that is needed. Immediately take your dog outside to the appropriate place. Wait for your dog to go again and when and if he/she does, praise him/her.

Do not use treats when potty training. As It takes the dog's focus off going to the bathroom and puts it on the food. You do not want the dog's brain to be on food when it is time to relieve itself. This often causes a dog to not completely finish eliminating because the dog is looking and waiting for food. The dog will often come back inside the home and go to the bathroom again after just being out.

Keep the focus on the task at hand. Rewards for eliminating outside should be the relief the dog feels when it empties itself, your happiness that the dog did the right thing, along with verbal praise. Once your puppy has successfully gone outside, it is important to reward the good behavior. It doesn’t have to be a big, loud celebration, but a simple quiet approval can get the message across of a job well done. Use Positive reinforcement. Don’t punish your puppy for an accident or do anything to create a negative association with her bodily functions. Stay calm and assertive and quietly remove the puppy to the place where you want him to go.

It is important to understand your puppy. Dogs want to please; the trick is to make them understand what it is you want from them. Dogs do not think the way humans do. When you are unhappy with your dog, it assumes that whatever it is doing at the exact moment you show disapproval is the thing that is upsetting you. For example, if your puppy relieves himself on your floor and you show your disapproval five minutes after he has committed the act, the puppy will think that the mess on the floor is bad. He will not relate the fact that it was the act of relieving himself on your floor that you disapprove of. The dog will eliminate, see the mess and get worried; you are now going to be unhappy. This is the reason so many dogs will relieve themselves in inappropriate places and look really guilty about it, yet they continue to do it. Some owners start to think that their dog is being sneaky when really it does not fully understand what it is doing wrong. It knows the mess upsets you but does not understand that it should stop "making" the mess. To your dog, these two things: "the mess" and "the act" are unrelated. The trick is to catch your dog in the act and make him understand. You should not hit your dog. Your tone of your voice is enough to make the dog see you are unhappy. A firm "No! You are not allowed to go in the house. No! No!" is all that is needed. Immediately take your dog outside to the appropriate place. Wait for your dog to go again and when and if he/she does, praise him/her.

Do not use treats when potty training. As It takes the dog's focus off going to the bathroom and puts it on the food. You do not want the dog's brain to be on food when it is time to relieve itself. This often causes a dog to not completely finish eliminating because the dog is looking and waiting for food. The dog will often come back inside the home and go to the bathroom again after just being out.

EARLY NEURO STIMULATION

We strive to provide families with a healthy well rounded puppy. This starts shortly after birth. Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) is something we do with all our puppies starting usually 3 days after birth (provided puppies did not endure an especially stressful delivery) and continuing through day 20. ENS is done for consecutive days using mild forms of stimulation that lead to mild stress in the puppy. These stresses help stimulate the neurological system which improves the growth and development of the pup’s immune system, cardiovascular system, as well as stress tolerance.
The process consists of 5 simple exercises which are completely harmless to the puppy. ENS is done for 3-5 seconds and the entire process only takes about 30 seconds per puppy. We perform Early Neurological Stimulation on our pups because we see the benefits of ENS as it has been shown to help jump start the pups neurological system and enables the system to kick into action earlier than it normally would. ENS emphasis a remarkable difference in the dogs performance, learning capacity as well as the ability to deal with stress in a positive way.
The result being an increased capacity as the puppy grows and matures to become a healthy, well rounded, intelligent, calm dog that will make a wonderful addition to your family.
Other benefits of ENS are improved cardiovascular performance (heart rate) as well as a stronger heartbeat, stronger adrenal glands, greater resistance to disease and more tolerance to stress.

We highly recommend crate training. Crates are an excellent tool for both potty training and preventing destructive behavior. Great Danes grow very quickly, and the “growing up” stage can last up to two years. Because of their size, they can unintentionally cause a lot of damage if not supervised.

A crate provides:

A safe place for your puppy

Structure and routine

Support for housebreaking

That said, a crate should never be used as long-term confinement. A dog that is crated all day, let out briefly, and crated again at night can become unhappy, anxious, destructive, and noisy. If you work all day, it is important to arrange for someone to let your puppy out during the day.

Dogs are den animals and naturally like crates—but even a den animal needs stimulation, movement, and interaction.

Crate Size & Routine

For Great Danes, we recommend purchasing an extra-large crate with a divider. This allows you to adjust the space as your puppy grows. The crate should be just large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably—no larger. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, which helps them learn bladder control.

Maintain close supervision at all times. If you see pacing, sniffing, or circling, immediately take your puppy outside, no delays. This is not the time to put on shoes or grab your phone.

Potty trips are business trips, not playtime. Give your puppy about 10 minutes to go. Puppies may need to eliminate more than once per trip. Always take your puppy outside after meals and playtime and before returning to the crate.

Consistency is key. Establish a routine that works for both you and your puppy. Pay attention to natural patterns. Morning potty, after meals, before bedtime....and adjust accordingly.

Everyone in the household should:

Use the same potty spot

Use the same word (such as “outside”)

The scent from previous potty trips encourages your puppy to go in the correct place, and consistent language builds clear communication. Over time, when you say “outside,” your puppy will understand exactly what that means.